Clams

At one time, cherrystones were the most popular clams on the half shell, but no longer. In the United States, the European taste for smaller clams has been catching on. In Venice, the razor clams are half the width of those sold here, sometimes no longer than three inches, and served grilled on the half shell with a gloss of butter.

Tellines, often deliciously steamed in France with garlic and parsley, are no bigger than a fingernail. Vongole verace, the similar Italian thin-shelled oval miniatures used with pasta, are still unavailable in the United States. The closest American cooks can come are cockles and Manila clams.

Manila clams were inadvertent hitchhikers from Asia with oysters brought for cultivation to the Pacific Northwest in the 1930’s. They have done extremely well in the world market.

Littlenecks are Eastern hard-shell clams, like cherrystones and quahogs, differing in age and size. Harvested from Florida to Maine, littlenecks must measure at least an inch from the point of the hinge to the top. It usually takes three years for a clam to reach that size. A Pacific littleneck has a white shell and a chewier texture and is usually not eaten raw. Littlenecks were named for Little Neck Bay on Long Island.

Cherrystone, the next larger clam, at two and a quarter to three inches, refers to a creek in Virginia. Quahog is an Algonquin Indian word for clams more than three inches, which are mainly chopped up for chowder and clam pie.

All clams, regardless of size or variety, must be purchased live. The shells of hard-shell clams will be tightly closed or, if slightly gaping, will close when touched. Soft-shell clams like steamers and razor clams cannot close completely around their protruding necks, but a thin membrane connecting the shells should be in place, and the neck should shrink if lightly touched.

Avoid clams with broken shells, and always store clams loosely wrapped or just in a bowl in the refrigerator. Never keep them in water or sealed in plastic. Unopened, they will stay fresh and alive for days.

Shellfish is strictly monitored. All bags of clams and oysters coming into the wholesale market are tagged to let inspectors identify the source if there is a problem.