Knife Construction

Parts of a Knife

Bolster–The bolster is only found on forged knives. It is a thick band of steel between the heel and the handle that helps balance the knife and prevents the user’s hand from slipping across the blade.
Butt–The butt is the end of the knife handle.
Edge–The edge is the sharpened part of the knife blade that extends from the heel to the tip. Maintaining a sharp edge is crucial for user safety and maximum effectiveness.
Handle–Also known as the scales, the handle provides the knife’s gripping surface.
Heel–The heel is the rear portion of the blade and is most often used to cut thick or tough products where more force is required.
Point–This functions as the piercing tool of the blade.
Spine–The spine is the top of the blade opposite the edge.
Tang–The tang is the part of the blade that extends into the handle and helps provide balance. Full tang blades are considered superior in balance and durability.
Tip–The tip is the front quarter of the blade that does most of the cutting and separating. Pointed tips are ideal for piercing and cutting small portions. Rounded tips are ideal for cutting or slicing thin portions.

Knife Blade Materials

• Carbon Steel
  • High-carbon steel blades, will tarnish over time. But they take a better edge, and are easier to maintain. The blade is also more flexible. Knife blades made with carbon steel demand a certain amount of upkeep–wiping it dry after use, for example. Or washing it after cutting acidic produce such as onions. Many very fine knives use high-carbon steel.
• Stainless Steel
  • Stainless steel is resistant to corrosion.  Stainless steel blades are more difficult to sharpen and must be sharpened or honed with diamond, carbide or ceramic sharpener.
• High-Carbon Stainless Steel
  • Some of the best blades are made of either high-carbon steel or high-carbon stainless steel. The difference between the two kinds of steel is in the alloy, which must be at least 13% chromium to be rust- and stainproof high-carbon stainless steel. Companies such as Wüsthof, Henckels, Forschner, and Tramontina use high-carbon stainless.
• Ceramic
  • Ceramic blades are expensive, light and extremely sharp from the factory. They cannot be conventionally sharpened and must be return to the factory if they lose their edge. There’s no chance of corrosion with ceramic, but it is fragile and can easily chip.

Forged vs. Stamped Blades

Forged Blades

• Heat Treated
• Made by Hand
• More Durable
• Expensive
• Holds an Edge
• Better Balance

Stamped Blades

• Die Cut
• Less Durable
• Less Expensive
• Equally Sharp

Knife Handles

• Wood
  • High Maintenance
  • Can Crack and Harbor Bacteria

• Polyoxymethylene & Composites
  • Commercial Grade
  • Very Durable
  • Sanitary

• Stainless Steel Handles
  • Virtually Maintenance-Free
  • Durable, Easy to Clean
  • Better Balance
  • Less of a grip

Knife Maintenance

Clean and sanitize your knife with each new task. Clean your knives at your station.  Do not carry unprotected knives through the kitchen or clean your knives in the 3-bay sink.  Never leave your knives in a sink or wash them in a dishwasher.

Allow your knife to dry before storing.  Blade covers protect you and your knife.

Keep your knife sharp and honed.

Sharpening and Honing

Sharpening removes metal to form a fine edge.  Knives should be sharpened 1-12 times per year and are cheapened on a whetstone.

Honing or steeling, simply straightens a sharp edge and is performed immediately with each use of a knife. A steel is used to hone a blade and may be of steel, ceramic or diamond coated steel.  Steels made of ceramic or diamond-coated steel do remove some metal.

It is important to clean your knife’s blade after honing (or sharpening) to remove any metal fragments that may be on the blade.